le sketch du jour: arrival in Morzine and evidence that I did know who Led Zeppelin was.

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June 22, 1980. Morzine, France.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTaOvzZKRxA[/youtube]

Look!  I did know who Led Zeppelin is, it’s right here in my French sketchbook.  So, here’s a few excerpts…

Ran at 7:00 (2 3/4 miles). We left at 8:30. Drove ’til 11:00. Stopped at a Romanesque Cathedral Paray-le-Monail. Town is very pretty with river and flowers and lots of green grass.

Picnic’ed for lunch.  Stopped in various towns on way to Morzine. Drove through outskirts of Geneva. Many people live in Geneva but live in France.  This way they are able to make swiss money which is good but have a French cost of living (Geneva is very expensive).

Arrived in Morzine at 7:00. Sunny and darling little town. Looks like Aspen only the original instead of U.S. interpretation of an Alpine Resort.  Lots of little cottage-type swiss places.

Dinner at 7:30. Delicious! Boef Bourguignon avec des nouilles (noodles), le potage (thin celery soup), le pain, la salade verte, et une petite tasse de glace chocolat with a darling little cookie. It was very pretty!

 

Amy Adams, from Julie and Julia. "Oh, Julia, you make it sound so simple."

 

I have made Julia’s boeuf bourguignon and it is worth every step.

There is a bar downstairs at this Auberge de Jeunesse where everyone sits around & watches some Athletic thing on tv. [note attention to details of specific sport has not improved, but I’m thinking this time of year it might have been Wimbledon? at least I capitalize Athletic to give importance] Dinner was served in another room on long wooden tables.

George (an older-looks Swiss man very athletic-looking) is the head chef and two younger guys, Dénis and another who I don’t know the name of.  Hank is the owner and Mary Anne is his wife.  They are about 30. Mary Anne plays Led Zeppelin in the A.M. about 8:00!! [and it was this song, I utubed and listened to a few and this was it so now I know the name, Kashmir] They speak French and German.

This shows you the difference between different Auberges. They were both only 20 francs ($5) but this one is so nice.  I’m in a room with Sharon & Nixie. Sharon just graduated form KU in graphic design & Nixie will be a senior at CU.  We have a sink et la W.C. is across the hall.  The showers are downstairs but there is lots of hot water & a washing machine. Bonsoir! [Can you see how happy I am with the hot water and bathing and washing facilities?]

 

 

 

 

 

le sketch du jour: Bourges Cathedral perspective, London girls. 21 June 1980.

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Perspective of groin vault with very fat felt tip pen. Bourges Cathedral.

I realize that it is just two days short of 31 years since this day and drawing in Bourges. Bourges is a city in the central part of France that is famous for it’s gothic cathedral. I’ll supplement a bit with pictures from Helen Gardner’s Art through the Ages. This will give you a little background and comparison historically between my first “le sketch du jour: Chartres” blog post and this contemporary cathedral in  Bourges. That’s tomorrow.

I have had so many jobs to both occupy myself and bring in egg money, that I don’t want to get too intense and lose anyone with detail which I tend to do. For example, playing art history teacher, you can google all this. But, a bit of background about what my goals were this summer. I only see these now in my retrospective look of my sketchbook from the summer of ’80.

I began my study at KU in interior design, minoring in French. My interest in interior design was never commercial. It began with my dollhouse for which the dolls held little interest, but the furniture! It was an old thrift shop bird cage with plywood shelves and I made comforters, tiny Andy Warhol flower paintings, modeled tiny FIMO tv sets and crocheted rugs. My grandmother would supply an occasional designer piece from the miniature shop that is now a Christmas Shop in the courtyard outside of The Shed in Santa Fe on our summer trips.

So, this began my interest in residential interiors (not playing house, designing and decorating house) and my interest in the history of decorative arts. I had done an internship with Bobby Smith at Jack Rees Interiors on Belleview. Bobby was a good friend of my Grandmother Millie Ward. Bobby was old school decorator from Chicago when there was no ASID or accreditation. Decorators just “had it” (taste) and/or went to art school.  Jack Rees Interiors was just up from JJ’s Steakhouse though I don’t know if it existed at that time. And yes, it is the spot that more than one time a car heading south from Westport crashed through the plate glass entry and landed in Jack’s showroom, thus requiring a remodel. He never seemed too fazed, so I wonder if he relished the opportunity to update the floor. There were never any casualties, but it would have given me pause when stopping in for a lamp or pillow.

Of course client names are confidential, but many had incredible art, antiques, and paintings; Old Master’s, Stickley before it was hip, noble, and reproduced, Tiffany candlesticks and one client with  NYC lighting designer on the team. I distinctly remember the bathroom lighting and downward focus on the pedestal sinks. The interiors were a backdrop to wonderful collections of possessions.

This was a whole different scale of domestic dwelling and interiors from my world growing up. I lived in our small, well-designed contemporary house on 67th St. in Prairie Village. My family did collect modern art through their relationship with Myra Morgan of Morgan Gallery. The Morgan’s were our neighbors in our tandem designed houses and Dennis is my childhood and forever friend.  Many in the 70s in KC collected art before people bought fancy cars and were diverted with other forms of consumption. Myra and Jim would take them all to Leo Castelli’s gallery in NYC.

As well, I remember my Grandmother taking me to Lillian Nassau on East 57th to buy me the few Tiffany pieces and later goblets to start my small never-to-grow collection. I really don’t even know NYC enough to know where I was in the city. But these were the small ways that I was connected to art possessions.

My grandparents had some wonderful pieces and I have a few, though much has been given to museums. They also gave joint larger gifts with the National Endowment for the Arts to the Nelson Gallery and Spencer Art Museum in Lawrence, the Cottingham Showboat and Rauschenberg Color Wheel are a few that come to mind. Their background another story, but needless to say, the wildcatter’s struck in Hays after the Depression. After teaching English and doing all the requisite women’s clubs, my grandmother gathered up reproductions of famous works of art, piled them in a van, and headed to more rural areas of Kansas. She and my Grandfather shared their love and interest in art with Kansans in the field who might not otherwise have had the opportunity to experience such things. She also had her own collection and wrote a book about Reverse Paintings on Glass. And, she served on the Kansas Arts Council, now the Kansas Arts Commission.

So, we had connections to art in my family. My mother at that time had been an art educator at the Nelson, on tv, and then Director of Art at the Johnson County Librairies. My father an architect. So, this background was more in the trenches than those for whom I worked at Jack Rees. As Bobby always said, serve the classes live with the masses. I’m sure my family’s passage was one of indentured servitude. We inherited the appreciation and desire to work around fine things of beauty and great craft without having to supply or possess the pocketmoney.

I guess I was in France this summer to learn about the European roots of all the historical interiors, secular and religious buildings, and urban planning from the Continent to put all of my background into a historical context. And I took an appreciation and history of Kansas with me to France. It is this history, enriched with the Industrial Revolution, new modes of transportation, and westward Frontier expansion that is the fabric of the wonderful aesthetic culture that is America today, warts and all.

This summer of 1980 and connections between these two worlds molded what I would later do and experience in life.  The difficulty, loneliness, beauty and learning of that summer was the best preparation I could ever have for living in the Deep Rural for the next 28 years. Inner resourcefulness and appreciation of place and people served me well in truly feeling and living the culture of the windy High Plains.

So, too deep, Paula. On a lighter note, a few notes from the sketchbook:

“Ran-got lost this am so a little tense.”  [how could I have been so aware of my emotions and recorded them but regressed so far…?]

“The artichokes here are HUGE! They are the size of honeydew melons.”  [this was bliss for me]

“Read French Magazine Marie Claire. Very easy to understand (subject was sunbathing). [again, too much tanning…]

“Dinner was better than last night. It was a hamburger thing, tomatoes, les pommes frites, camembert & peaches. We  knew it was hamburger because horsemeat here is the speciality (expensive) meat and the auberge wouldn’t serve that.”

“After dinner we talked with two girls here from London.”….”They gave us names of punk rock groups to see, theaters to go to to see what is really going on in Lond, bars to go to, what to be afraid of, what not to be afraid of. They said punks are weird but no harmful.”

[I have written] “if they ‘….stair ott ewe, tell tham to feck awk’ in her words.”  “But, stay away from the skinheads-the whole purpose is to fight-can’t miss them.  Bald, big boots, leather, sunglasses.”  [one east coast art school student from Kansas adopted the look that summer which I witnessed upon arriving home; the cultural background of the “look” had not been researched]

“They were traveling a little differently:  camping (tents), hitching for transportation, and free food via “nicking”-she said her meals were wonderful!! And then they proceeded to complain about all the “nicking” in Italy!!” [already identifying my pattern to pick up on hypocrisies in other’s while I’m sure unaware of my own].

The end, bonsoir, à demain.

 

le sketch du jour: Bourges Auberge de jeunesse. June 20, 1980.

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Streetscape: Bourges, France.

Fri. June 20, 1980.  (notes from my sketchbook journal: The Johnson County girl comes out).

Well!  I am writing this so I will remember how I feel but won’t write that home. We are in Bourges in an Auberge de jenuesse. It is the pits.  There is a festival going on in Bourges so there is a huge group of 15-16 yr. old girls from Brittany. It is quite pungent.

The bus couldn’t get on the street to the Auberge so we all had to get out of the bus and pick up those little Italian cars so we could get by.  In the meantime, we caused a HUGE traffic jam & people were furious. Lots of yelling and gestures.

Dinner was at 7:30.  It was a sort of dormitory place.  It consisted of 1/2 grapefruit (pamplemousse), some kind of mystery sausage that looked like hormel sausage uncooked, rice, cheese, & apple.  Then everyone stacked up the dishes and scraped plates, at the table. Then we sponge off table and dry the silverware.  The curfew was 11:00 pm and I took one look at the 8″ of water standing in the shower & decided not to bath for two days until Morzine.  You can imagine how wonderful I am in this sort of environment.

We did go to a town carnival after dinner which was a lot of fun. [my motivation for Thursday night’s visit to carrousel in Wichita, June 9, 2011].  All the same bumper cars, games, rides, lights, but beignet & gauffre (thick waffles with whipped cream and berries) & escargots instead of popcorn, cotton candy, and hotdogs.

Cindy (Bean) and I ran at 10:00 pm.  It was still light and no one bothered us (3 mi.). Talked to Amy and Ginna Getto outside for a while. We all agreed to travel in groups of 3 & save money for hotels.  The truth is finally out after we all tried to be cheery on arrival.

Tomorrow I’m going to the Festival here & the Bourges Cathedral. Au revoir à demain!

P.S. Bedtime

There is a sheet sleeping bag you stick your feet in and a horsehair blanket! 🙂

You would be proud of my attitude here, though. I have been thoroughly pleasant.  Much nicer than I would be with my own family.

P.S. June 10th, 2011.  I read this last week. And, as I went to yoga, I noticed that a Carnival was setting up in the parking lot behind Siva next to the Baseball Stadium. This area used to be the old airport runway. Friday evening after my class, I could not resist.

the best horse!

and the best shoes!

le sketch du jour: Château de Chenonceu. June 20, 1980.

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Chenonceau. Mistress booted and the party begins.

I’ll start here which is where I began in my sketchbook.

Upon the death of François I in 1547, Henry II offered the chåteau as a gift to his mistress Diane de Poitiers. She constructed the arched bridge, connecting the chåteau to the opposite bank. The view of the bridge is the most famous and worth looking up.

These are my notes:

“Mistress of Henry II [Diane de Poitiers] lived with Catherine de Medici and Henry II in chåteau. She was thrown out at [the] death of her husband.  She added on to Chenonceau (lived there w/ son) and they had wild parties there. Catherine was very masculine & domineering, her son was homosexual. Parties were wild orgies with topless women in boats, etc.”

Garden laid out geometrically. (typically French-nature conquered by reason & man).

“Va faire cuire on œuf.”= up yours

We picniced again for lunch and headed to Loches.  There was a chateau there, but we didn’t go in as a group and I just sketched.  Two little girls came up to me later and (on the street) asked if they could see my drawing.  They giggled alot (they were French-about high school age) and asked me lots of questions.  They were really cute. “

I don’t know how the French profanity happened to slip into the notes.

 

 

 

le sketch du jour: Chateau Langeais. June 19, 1980.

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Chateau Langeais. Langeais, France.

This was pretty uneventful. It was the beginning of what would be, literally, a month of rain in Paris. But, that’s Paris. It’s grey and black and beautiful. The gardens are green.

It did make me think about rain. It is raining right now. I think rain is good, but I don’t think it’s good luck. I read this:

“It pops up through Shakespeare”s works and I imagine it would have to do with a pastoral society, where rain would symbolize fertility- hence it is good luck on awedding day.”

Rain, freezing rain, means older people need to get home. So, three hours later, one is still in the University Club library, trapped. I didn’t talk to my friends, but I hope they had fun and the food was likely delicious. I love the candids someone took. The bridesmaids carried Duchess roses.

And, Bonnie Winston helped with the menu inadvertently. I was a hostess at The Prospect in Westport. It was textbook Prospect, minus the apple pie å la mode.  Maybe that’s why people always have so much fun at other people’s weddings, regardless of the outcome. They don’t have to be one of the actors.

So, rain and weddings bring me back to talk about Langeais and this sketch.

“One particular noteworthy event at the castle took place in 1491 – the marriage of Anne of Brittany and King Charles VIII, the first stage in the reunification of Brittany and France. The political wedding included agreement that if Charles VIII died without leaving a male heir to the throne that she would marry the next king – and since all her children died very young that is what she did, marrying Louis XII after the death of Charles.”

I still don’t quite understand how this worked, but I will look it up later. I have looked at many pictures of Langeais. I see absolutely no remnant of anything looking remotely like this tower in my drawing.

I do like the stairs and stepped wall.  As well the tile or whatever it is that supports the upper lookout. Maybe this was her escape tower. But which way did she go?

le sketch du jour: Chateau d’Amboise. June 18, 1980.

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Chateau d'Amboise. Leonardo is buried here.

I was avoiding doing this post because I didn’t really like the sketch. It’s growing on me…

If you’ll look at this link to Chateau d’Amboise, you can see I’m sitting on the edge of the wall while I am sketching and the perspective is not all that bad. I still don’t remember how the grade happens to drop off so steeply at the wall. It must have been built into a hillside.

This is all my notes say:

chapel-Leonardo is buried

Flamboyant Gothic Style-lacy stone cutting. His and Hers Chimneys.

Chateau-Renaissance and Gothic.

Leonardo came to France at the age of 64, but this gives me an opportunity to talk about his work before that time.

This is a good link to Leonardo’s life. Skim to the letter of introduction he wrote to the Duke of Milan, Ludovico Sforza. I found this interesting because he was educated and formally trained in art. He had been working as a painter with successful commissions for some time now.  He is 30.

The letter to the Duke of Milan.

He is listing his capabilities as a designer of both civil and military machines. Italy at that time is internally divided by wars between city-states, followed by an invasion of France. Military engineers were important figures, for this was a time of rapid development of firearms and explosives. Leonardo lists many ideas for fortifications, bridges, weapons, and river diversions to flood the enemy. At only the end of the list of the ten ideas, that he notes his artistic capabilities in a post note.

“Also I can execute sculpture in marble, bronze or clay, and also painting. In which my work will stand compation with that of anyone else whoever he may be.

Moreover, I would like to undertake the work of the bronze horse which shall endure with immortal glory and eternal honour the suspicious memory of the Prince your father and the illustrious house of Sforza.

And if any of the aforesaid things should seem impossible or impractical to anyone, I offer myself as ready to make trial of them in your park or in whatever place shall please your Excellency, to whom I commend myself with all possible humility.”

There was no reply to the letter, but he was summoned to court one day where it is said, “he was the least nervous of the pair.”

Florence.

In 1502, after working as a celebrated painter and engineer in Milan, he returns to Florence. He meets up with Michelangelo, but Michelangelo mocked him about an unfinished overambitious design for a bronze equestrian statue. Leonardo was deeply hurt, so they were never friends despite having so much in common.

They were both commissioned to do murals in the Palazzo Vecchio which neither finished. This might be due to a different focus for needs of the time. Both helped lead a revolution in anatomy. Doctors had formerly relied on textbooks and past practices, but artists and doctors alike changed this tradition. They began to dissect bodies and recorded the results accurately. The work of artists and doctors during the Renaissance was often very similar. This was also the time of his interest in flying and bird flight sketches.

Rome.

He moves to Rome in 1513 and continues to work for Giuliano de Medici in the Belvedere Palace of the Vatican. But, it is a time of frustration and illness for Leonardo.

France.

By the time Leonardo is summoned to France in 1517, he is a very sick man. His right hand is paralysed from a stroke. The King did not require he fulfill commisions, and he spent time organizing his notebooks.

But, that doesn’t mean he didn’t have to earn his keep.

“Leonardo had to suffer frequent royal visits and produce plans for festivals and plays. The King would enter the manor house of Cloux via a stretch of tunnel connected to the castle at Amboise. One of the items Leonardo made for him during this period was a mechanical lion with a breast that opened to reveal lilies.”

Leonardo died on 2 May, 1519 just after his 67th birthday. Therefore, I don’t know why I wrote that he was buried at Chateau d’Amboise. Other records say he was buried in the Church of St. Florentine, but his remains were scattered during the Wars of Religion.

Giorgio Vasari would write in his biography on Leonardo that,

“Everywhere, his mind turned to difficult matters.”

And last, I hope that Leonardo had a lovely time in France in his later life. I will think that he ate beautiful food and enjoyed the French Countryside as a guest and companion of the King. And best to us, looking over his sketches and putting them in order.

This wouldn’t be anyone’s favorite of any Jean Dominque Auguste Ingrès paintings, but it depicts Leonardo giving his final breath to François I.