le sketch du jour: Château de Chenonceu. June 20, 1980.

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Chenonceau. Mistress booted and the party begins.

I’ll start here which is where I began in my sketchbook.

Upon the death of François I in 1547, Henry II offered the chåteau as a gift to his mistress Diane de Poitiers. She constructed the arched bridge, connecting the chåteau to the opposite bank. The view of the bridge is the most famous and worth looking up.

These are my notes:

“Mistress of Henry II [Diane de Poitiers] lived with Catherine de Medici and Henry II in chåteau. She was thrown out at [the] death of her husband.  She added on to Chenonceau (lived there w/ son) and they had wild parties there. Catherine was very masculine & domineering, her son was homosexual. Parties were wild orgies with topless women in boats, etc.”

Garden laid out geometrically. (typically French-nature conquered by reason & man).

“Va faire cuire on œuf.”= up yours

We picniced again for lunch and headed to Loches.  There was a chateau there, but we didn’t go in as a group and I just sketched.  Two little girls came up to me later and (on the street) asked if they could see my drawing.  They giggled alot (they were French-about high school age) and asked me lots of questions.  They were really cute. “

I don’t know how the French profanity happened to slip into the notes.

 

 

 

le sketch du jour: Chateau Langeais. June 19, 1980.

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Chateau Langeais. Langeais, France.

This was pretty uneventful. It was the beginning of what would be, literally, a month of rain in Paris. But, that’s Paris. It’s grey and black and beautiful. The gardens are green.

It did make me think about rain. It is raining right now. I think rain is good, but I don’t think it’s good luck. I read this:

“It pops up through Shakespeare”s works and I imagine it would have to do with a pastoral society, where rain would symbolize fertility- hence it is good luck on awedding day.”

Rain, freezing rain, means older people need to get home. So, three hours later, one is still in the University Club library, trapped. I didn’t talk to my friends, but I hope they had fun and the food was likely delicious. I love the candids someone took. The bridesmaids carried Duchess roses.

And, Bonnie Winston helped with the menu inadvertently. I was a hostess at The Prospect in Westport. It was textbook Prospect, minus the apple pie å la mode.  Maybe that’s why people always have so much fun at other people’s weddings, regardless of the outcome. They don’t have to be one of the actors.

So, rain and weddings bring me back to talk about Langeais and this sketch.

“One particular noteworthy event at the castle took place in 1491 – the marriage of Anne of Brittany and King Charles VIII, the first stage in the reunification of Brittany and France. The political wedding included agreement that if Charles VIII died without leaving a male heir to the throne that she would marry the next king – and since all her children died very young that is what she did, marrying Louis XII after the death of Charles.”

I still don’t quite understand how this worked, but I will look it up later. I have looked at many pictures of Langeais. I see absolutely no remnant of anything looking remotely like this tower in my drawing.

I do like the stairs and stepped wall.  As well the tile or whatever it is that supports the upper lookout. Maybe this was her escape tower. But which way did she go?

le sketch du jour: Chateau d’Amboise. June 18, 1980.

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Chateau d'Amboise. Leonardo is buried here.

I was avoiding doing this post because I didn’t really like the sketch. It’s growing on me…

If you’ll look at this link to Chateau d’Amboise, you can see I’m sitting on the edge of the wall while I am sketching and the perspective is not all that bad. I still don’t remember how the grade happens to drop off so steeply at the wall. It must have been built into a hillside.

This is all my notes say:

chapel-Leonardo is buried

Flamboyant Gothic Style-lacy stone cutting. His and Hers Chimneys.

Chateau-Renaissance and Gothic.

Leonardo came to France at the age of 64, but this gives me an opportunity to talk about his work before that time.

This is a good link to Leonardo’s life. Skim to the letter of introduction he wrote to the Duke of Milan, Ludovico Sforza. I found this interesting because he was educated and formally trained in art. He had been working as a painter with successful commissions for some time now.  He is 30.

The letter to the Duke of Milan.

He is listing his capabilities as a designer of both civil and military machines. Italy at that time is internally divided by wars between city-states, followed by an invasion of France. Military engineers were important figures, for this was a time of rapid development of firearms and explosives. Leonardo lists many ideas for fortifications, bridges, weapons, and river diversions to flood the enemy. At only the end of the list of the ten ideas, that he notes his artistic capabilities in a post note.

“Also I can execute sculpture in marble, bronze or clay, and also painting. In which my work will stand compation with that of anyone else whoever he may be.

Moreover, I would like to undertake the work of the bronze horse which shall endure with immortal glory and eternal honour the suspicious memory of the Prince your father and the illustrious house of Sforza.

And if any of the aforesaid things should seem impossible or impractical to anyone, I offer myself as ready to make trial of them in your park or in whatever place shall please your Excellency, to whom I commend myself with all possible humility.”

There was no reply to the letter, but he was summoned to court one day where it is said, “he was the least nervous of the pair.”

Florence.

In 1502, after working as a celebrated painter and engineer in Milan, he returns to Florence. He meets up with Michelangelo, but Michelangelo mocked him about an unfinished overambitious design for a bronze equestrian statue. Leonardo was deeply hurt, so they were never friends despite having so much in common.

They were both commissioned to do murals in the Palazzo Vecchio which neither finished. This might be due to a different focus for needs of the time. Both helped lead a revolution in anatomy. Doctors had formerly relied on textbooks and past practices, but artists and doctors alike changed this tradition. They began to dissect bodies and recorded the results accurately. The work of artists and doctors during the Renaissance was often very similar. This was also the time of his interest in flying and bird flight sketches.

Rome.

He moves to Rome in 1513 and continues to work for Giuliano de Medici in the Belvedere Palace of the Vatican. But, it is a time of frustration and illness for Leonardo.

France.

By the time Leonardo is summoned to France in 1517, he is a very sick man. His right hand is paralysed from a stroke. The King did not require he fulfill commisions, and he spent time organizing his notebooks.

But, that doesn’t mean he didn’t have to earn his keep.

“Leonardo had to suffer frequent royal visits and produce plans for festivals and plays. The King would enter the manor house of Cloux via a stretch of tunnel connected to the castle at Amboise. One of the items Leonardo made for him during this period was a mechanical lion with a breast that opened to reveal lilies.”

Leonardo died on 2 May, 1519 just after his 67th birthday. Therefore, I don’t know why I wrote that he was buried at Chateau d’Amboise. Other records say he was buried in the Church of St. Florentine, but his remains were scattered during the Wars of Religion.

Giorgio Vasari would write in his biography on Leonardo that,

“Everywhere, his mind turned to difficult matters.”

And last, I hope that Leonardo had a lovely time in France in his later life. I will think that he ate beautiful food and enjoyed the French Countryside as a guest and companion of the King. And best to us, looking over his sketches and putting them in order.

This wouldn’t be anyone’s favorite of any Jean Dominque Auguste Ingrès paintings, but it depicts Leonardo giving his final breath to François I.


 




 

le sketch du jour: Chateau de Chambord. June 18, 1980.

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Chateau de Chambord. Francis I country house and hunting lodge. north façade.

My sketchbook notes were minimal, so these are my thoughts with a little help from Louise Gardner’s 7th edition. Here’s some background on the owner and creatives…

After a divided 15th c., France was under leadership of strong kings. She became aggressive with her Italian neighbors, taking the artists Leonardo and del Sarto into court first.  The Renaissance artists  didn’t make a mark in France.  But, later Florentine Mannerists implanted Italianate style which finally overtook the French Gothic. The religious art of the Middle Ages was superseded by glorification of the King. Here’s the guy…

rumor has it "The merry monarch was a great lover and hero of hundreds of gallant situations." Louise Gardner.

Jean Clouet, Francis I. Tempera and oil on panel. Louvre.

Certainly captured the twinkle….

“The personal tastes of Francis and his court must have run to an art at once suave. artifical, elegant, and erotic.” Louise Gardner.

Italian Mannerists Rosso and Primaticcio assembled  the art crew (School of Fontainbleau) for Francis I palace combining painting, fresco, imitation mosaic, and relief stucco sculpture.  Look it up if you need a day trip from Paris, (Venus Reproving Love, Gallery, some frontal) but I liked this house better.

So, a guy’s gotta have his lodge, built near a forest to commune (hunt) with the animals. Being a meateater, I have no problem with this. Someone has to do the dirty work.

“It has been said of Francis I that his one obsession besides women was building.” Louise Gardner

So back to Chambord.

Plan by a pupil of Giuliano da Sangallo.

I’ve oriented the plan like my sketch. Do you think the head architect Giuliano was getting a little grey behind the ears?  or it he’d just gotten fed up and said “you deal with him”?  Well, it’s a service industry and the well-paying customer is generally lead to be thought that he’s right.  And he is, in my opinion, pretty-much  right-on in this  collaboration. The ordered Italianate Renaissance banding on the bottom and earthy French Gothic Turrets, dormers, chimneys and lanterns on top  are quite the sexy couple.

I remember standing within the very center of the square block. The broad central staircase to the upstairs was marble and amazing. It kind of reminded me of the stairs at the Nelson from the lower level by Atkins auditorium to the bookstore. I’m having  a flashback because Gina and I used to race the twin staircases while Ginny worked the education wing.  That is, until one of those guards more frightening than the Duane Hansen caught us.

Anyway, we couldn’t go upstairs at that time, so I went out to sketch.  I sketched by “le snack bar”, albeit tasteful and serving wine, then just west of the chateau. We did get to go up to the roof.  It reminded  me of something but I haven’t quite put my head around it.   Edward Scissorhands castle or some celluloid collage I have in my head.

 

 

le sketch du jour: les hommes en bicyclettes. June 17, 1980.

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June 17, 1980 cntd.

Arrived at Hotel Campanile in Orléans at 6 pm.  Cindy (Bean) and I went for a 20 minute run & had our fist contact with Frenchmen.  They rode bikes (stingrays) and were probably about 10 & 12 years old.  They insisted on following us on their bikes and asking questions very rapidly.  It is very hard to run at the same time you are trying to understand, formulate and respond in French.  Good practice for us, little boys aren’t as intimidating.

les gentilhommes qui roulent

Dinner-hotel at 8:00 pm. sausages, boiled beef, vegetables and les pommes frites!

Hotel is nice-I have a room with Ginna Ghetto & Cindy.

$- 9 francs for stamps (timbres-poste). 2.4 francs for postcards (cartes-postales).

 

 

 

 

 

History of the French Sketchbook, 1980. En anglais.

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Au marche

I went to school at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris with Parsons School of Design, New York City in 1980.  But, it wasn’t necessary to take French for the School of Art and Design at KU.  After five years of Madame Honig (Indian Hills) and Madame Speidel (Shawnee Mission East), I decided that I was not going to forget those words and I took French classes all my semesters at KU.

I went with the French Department at KU with the French students with whom I traveled for two weeks (chateaux of the Loire Valley, la cathedrale of Bourges, Morzine in the French Alps, Chamonix) staying in youth hostels.  Three days before they departed for the French Alps for Paris by bus, I had to be at school at the Louvre because the students from New York were arriving in Paris, and I took the train by myself during the night.

A woman of a certain age plus twenty years took me under her wing et told me to take care to stay far from the dark men of Paris. It was useful advice for the entire summer (it’s just my opinion, but I think that the French have never embraced the words politically correct, particularly not a country whose metro signs said “give your seat to the mutilated of the war.”) I love the French.

After the summer in France, I dreamed in French.

And after I moved away (withdrew) in my head and to the country, I dreamed (yearned) of France.

When I went running on the Cimarron River, I dreamed of my running route on the banks of the Seine by the Louvre.

When I made homemade baguettes for the cowboys (too funny, a woman who bakes…there is not even a word in French for bakes, much less, bread) I daydreamed of the bakery on rue du bac near l’hotel Cayre on le Boulevard Raspail where I lived that summer.

France, I dream of you still.

Here is my book of that summer, the food, the buildings, the people, the strange men, the professors, my epicerie (like a deli with artichokes), the boulevards of Haussmann, and the stories of that summer when I was able to be a young French girl from Kansas. With only myself, but never alone.

And now, my French friends have returned to me in Kansas.