le sketch du jour: July 4th, 1980. Beaubourg, Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, d’Estaing, some politics.

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Centre Georges Pompidou, former meat district, Paris.

The Pompidou Center was a brand new building designed by architects Renzo Piano (Italian, Milan)and Richard Rogers (British, Yale) in 1980 when I was in Paris. It was one of many projects by Valéry Giscard d’Estaing. The complex, an Art Museum, is in the Beaubourg area of the 4th arrondissement of Paris. It is near les halles (the former meat market area), rue montorgueil (where hip Parisians shop, eat, are seen…there’s a Monet painting of this street) and the Marais (first wealthy planned urban shopping and dwelling, Place des Vosges which was mentioned in sketchbook on July 1st. The goal of this museum is very egalitarian, to bring in everyone, even those who would never go to an art museum. This is so different than so many other museums in Paris where I would generalize to say that beyond the tourist, the visitor already feels some degree of appreciation of art.

First, a word about le Centre Georges Pompidou, aka Beauborg. If you really want the architect’s intellectual discussion, here ’tis. But bear with me, if you are working in the field of architecture or construction, it’s useless.

The Photo of my angle from internet.

It was innovative in having services such as staircases, lifts, electrical power conduits and water pipes on the outside, leaving the inside open and uncluttered.

an excerpt from journal notes from 4 July 1980.

 

As you can see, I saw Pompidou Center commonly called “Beaubourg”. It is pretty exciting-it looks like a “big erector set” as Michael (my teacher from NYC and Parsons) said.  It is exciting because it is so big, so high-tech, and so different for this city.  People seem to really enjoy it because the square & inside of the center were packed.  Inside was a photography exhibit, an exhibit of old train cars, tents, paintings, Duane Hanson (people in car) – I think it was “leisure activities,” a restaurant on the roof, a museum in the majority of theh building, and an escalator that takes you up through that clear tunnel to the top.  I did all, but none of the museum, and I was there for 2 1/2 hours.  

 

In the square were bagpipes, mimes, dancers, beggars, some religious group, and a man with chaings aound him that passed around a bucket for money.  There was also a belly dancer.  Definitely a must of things to do in Paris, but it does take a whole afternoon. 

And here’s some politics about France if anyone cares. 

Beaubourg was initiated under Pompidou, but under d’Estaing’s leadership was completed along with Valéry’s other far-reaching infrastructure projects, the TGV and the turn towards nuclear power as France’s main energy source. He suffered from the economic downturn from the ’73 energy crisis marking the end of the “30 glorious years after World War II.” Official discourse stated that the “end of the tunnel was near”.

A bit of background, he was a centre-right politician and liberal on social issues in the Catholic country of divorce, contraception, and abortion. He was opposed by Mitterand, of the newly-unified left, and from a rising Jacques Chirac who resurrected Gaullis (with whom d’Estaing had broken ranks) on a right-wing opposition line and was not re-elected after his tenure in ’81.  He supported the United States of Europe and the later EU.

One quote of his in particular, from an article he wrote for Le Monde[10] and published in that newspaper on 15 June 2007, that “public opinion will be led to adopt, without knowing it, the proposals we dare not present to them directly”, was consistently highlighted by “No” campaigners (anti EU) as evidence of d’Estaing’s alleged agenda to fool the European public into his proposals. While the quote is accurate, it was part of a critique, taken out of context, of a suggestion made by some unnamed persons. In truth, he went on to reject this course of action by saying, “This approach of ‘divide and ratify’ is clearly unacceptable. Perhaps it is a good exercise in presentation. But it would confirm to European citizens the notion that European construction is a procedure organised behind their backs by lawyers and diplomats.”

He was a a teacher in Montréal in ’48, graduated from École Polytechnique and the École national d’administration from ’49-’51, worked with the Tax and Revenue Service, joined staff of Prime Minister Faure in ’56, sec’y of Finance from ’59-’62, he supported the winning candidate Georges Pompidou and returned to the Ministry of Economy and Finance, and in ’74 at age 48, he was elected to President,In 1974, he was elected President of France at 48, the third youngest president in French history, after Louis Napoleon Bonaparte and Jean Casimir-Perioer. He promised “change in continuity”. He made clear his desire to introduce various reforms and modernise French society, which was an important part of his presidency.

And, he was an elegant, articulate man of economics, seemingly free of sexual scandal (a little minor diamond smuggling liaison accusation, but we have money issues in America, too). Pretty amazing for a French politician. 

 

le sketch du jour but no sketches: July 1 and 2, 1980

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This is only one that architectural historians and decorative arts people (antiques dealers) might find interesting. Unfortunately my books including pictures of most of these buildings is in the attic at the XIT Ranch, so there are only a few visuals.  I don’t know why anyone cares, but I have included everything from the journal so far, so I am compelled. I was an Art History teacher and focused quite a bit on architecture from 1983-1989 so I’m trying to hold back from sharing….we’ll see if it works…

A synopsis:

July 1, 1980:  raining and cold. [I have to include this to show you that it rained pretty much every day in Paris that summer. And I was still happy as a clam.]

AM Architecture, Les Halles area:  S. Eustache. Fontaine des Innocents-Goujon

Fontaine des Innocents. Goujon.

    Lescot wing of Louvre

Lescot Wing of Louvre.

NOON-TWO (it is quite the long lunch hour in France).  Restaurant Chinois north of Louvre (19 Francs).

PM Decorative Arts Lecture:  Louis XIII & Louis XIV.  Going crazy-can’t understand

UNFAMILIAR TOTALLY!

Travel Agency-Rue des Capucines by Opera.

Métro home:  I CAN DO IT!!

groceries- 13F, dinner:  sandwich-5F

letter, read, bed.

July 2, 1980

Raining. Ran 3 miles around Tuileries and Louvre.  Met a street cleaner & talked to him for a while.

AM ARCHITECTURE

La Maignon:  (first use of colossal order in Paris). Baptiste Cerceau.

Place des Vosges:  

Place des Vosges, Marais District. Paris, France

1st departure point for Paris as a planned city.  Henry IV wanted a practical, middle-cost, quality housing area.

First example of city planning in a large public space. Private and away from traffice but with commerce integrated. Influenced development of the wealthy Marais District which in turn affected all of Paris.

Contract still in effect for building in this square which dictates uniform façades, red brick with details in white stone, gallery arcade on ground floor (covered to induce commerce).

Hotel Sully:  1634 Jean du Cerceau, son of Baptiste above  (l’hôtel is the word for city house, not a hotel).

Standard for a City Villa:  courtyard with main living behind courtyard and garden behind the house. Begin to see Baroque

Hotel Carnavalet:  1548 (by master mason)

One of the fist examples of a City Villa similar to Sully but before.

Temple St. Marie:  François Mansart, 1632.  (Gothic Interior)

clear articulation of Masses (structure evident)

restrained sculptural decoration

NOON-TWO Bought needlepoint at shop near college where we had a lecture at noon. (cost $40.00)

PM DECORATIVE ARTS

Louis XIV Lecture & Germanic Glassware visit

Chicken and artichoke for dinner.

July 3, 1980:  ran 3.5 miles down to l’île-de-la-cité

St. Gervais-Solomon de Brosse (grandson of Jacques Cerceau).  First classical church in Paris where correctly used orders. Had to have tall façade.

Hotel Beauvais-1652.

Church of St. Paul St. Louis-Jesuits

overstated details

superimposed monumental corinthian order

dome is surprise (not seen from exterior)

Hotel Salé-Jean Boullier-1656

caryatids used in interior space

superimposed monumental corinthian order

dome is surprise (not seen from exterior)

Hôtel Guenegaud-1648 Mansart

sober

balance (pavilions)

proportion of glass to wall is greater than in other housing

architectural mask

PEOPLE

Went to lunch with Mark (Chicago, sort of macho-type on trip.  Lives in condo on Lake Shore Drive and works in father’s advertising agency) and Allison.

Had salade niçoise-goofed around all afternoon. Met boy when I was buying fruit from UCLA who wanted to know the word for peanut butter, obviously a backpacker. Went to hotel to needlepoint.

Had dinner with Allison at Café St. Germain across from hotel! Pizza and ice cream.  It was very good, though. It had warmed up so we sat on the street and watched all the peple walk up and down St. Germain-des-Près.  Home at 10:00 to needlepoint and looked through travel books about Spain and Portugal. Bed.

Charlie had come in at 5:00 am, called a boy, went back out & is not home yet (9:45 AM). Exciting!!  🙂

 

 

 

 

le sketch du jour: The train to Paris. Those snotty little bastards. Stay away from the dark-skinned men. Sat. June 28, 1980.

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Trying to get my luggage in the overhead bin.

Sat. June 28, 1980.

Woke at 10:00. Ran to Le Lac Montrion (7 mi.).

Group went to Chamonix, but weren’t getting back ’til 7:00 & I had to be at bus then, so I stayed home to pack.

[I’m repeating myself, but I went over with KU French Department. I studied and traveled with them for two weeks, but I was actually enrolled in classes with Parsons School of Design, New York City, in their study abroad program. We studied the History of Decorative Arts in the Museum of Decorative Arts that is the north wing of the Louvre. And, we had brief lectures in afternoon on Paris history and urban planning. Then, we hit the streets to see all the arrondissements, boulevards, and buildings. These told the story of religion, kings, politics, power, prostitution, learning and most of all, people wine and food that are the things French that we love, despite WWII and their superior attitude about us saving their ungrateful asses from Hitler.]

a tangent: The French and WWII. Why American men refer to Frenchmen as “those snotty little bastards.”

You know I love the French. This is from so many men I know, and they do have a point since it seems to continue.  You know how that goes…”that accidental bomb dropped in France en route just slipped.”  Or, as someone on the internet put it….

“We only fucked up one place, we accidentally dropped a bomb on the French embassy. ‘Whoa-whoa-whoa-whoa-whoa! Aw, sorry about that fellahs. I’m sure we would have had better aim if we had more FUCKING SLEEP! Thanks for those 6500 extra air miles, you fuckheads, BUILD A NEW HOUSE!’ BLAM!!!”

Walked to town at 3:00.  Had café au lait $ read.  Lots of people came in.  I sat by a German Shepherd.

Jeanie and Bob took me to the station. Raining. Station was very stark.

Two nice ladies answered all my questions, but I am making progress→I kept kind of having them reiterate what they were saying about reserved seats vs. tickets, etc. & finally I said I’m American.  They said, “Oh! Vous parlez français bien!” J’ai dit “j’ai besoin de longtemps pour le comprendre.”  🙂 [I need a long time to understand]

Train was funny.  2 seats facing each other w/ overhead racks. [I always spent least possible, so even though overnight, I did not get a couche-lit with bed. They are like sleeping in a sardine can anyway though the train does lull.]

You should have seen me try to get my bags up.  I finally left one on the floor. An older couple and girl got in my car in Annecy. Wasn’t too bad except for the cold. I think I’ll get a bed the next time I take an all night trip.

one woman’s warning

[It is interesting to me that I so vividly remember a woman at the train station in Morzine speaking to me before I embarked on the train, but that I haven’t written about it.  She was older and looked very nice and kind to speak with me in French before I left. She was concerned about me being alone on the train to Paris. And, her particular words that I remember are warning me to be careful of “les Marseilleuses.” She mentioned that I would know because they had such dark skin. The French have so many cultures they accept that they don’t have the same p.c. hangups about speaking of racial generalizations we do in America. Of course, as with most people, people carry racial stereotypes that are formed for a reason, historical, regional, cultural. But, France has always welcomed and attracted such a multi-cultural population that I hardly think this can be termed “racist” in the “hating” fashion that it labels people who current venture into talking about race this way in America. There are many healthy things about being able to discuss race. Anyway, you’ll see later in the summer with my roommate, who slept with every man on the left bank from Marseilles, that this came into play with my immediate bunking situation in Paris.]

 

 

 

 

le sketch du jour: the train schedule, little mouse, une fête de coutume.

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Hank wore a BOZO wig and danced w/ all the girls and put his hands clear on their ASSES!!

June 27, 1980.

Woke at 10:00. to more freezing rain. Ran anyway (4 1/2) in freezing rain. Hot water deal was broken :(. Froze.

Lunch -some paté thing. french frîtes & great spinach!! Yaourt & fruit.

Went downtown at 3:00 to l’autogare to find out train schedule. I’m taking a train that leaves at 10:00 PM at night and arrives at 7:00 AM.  I take a 7:30 train from Morzine to another town that train leaves from. [sorry grammar] Then in Paris, I’ll take a taxi to hotel.

[I went with KU French Language Department as I was a French minor, but I left the group early. I was studying with Parsons School of Design/NYC au musée des arts décoratifs in the Louvre. The two courses we took were a History of Decorative Arts and Urban Planning of Paris.  The history of decorative arts was all about French periods of design as they related to political and social context.

Ex. of Decorative Arts Study:  French armchairs from earliest kings to present, tapestries, history of bone china to Limoges, quimper, motifs like folle nappe (folded napkin), swags, boulle dressers, etc. etc. etc. Basically, everything you wanted to know about antiques and roots of interior design.

Ex. of Urban Planning Study:  from Roman catacombs below Notre Dame to Haussmann’s Boulevards. About halfway through the trip, I lost my carte d’orange and didn’t want to buy another. So, I walked these Avenues and experienced Haussmann’s Paris on foot. As well, the running allowed me to experience many parts of the city within a reasonable 6 mile distance from city core.]

Class at 4:00 to 5:30-Tea.

Cindy & I planned trip ’til dinner.

[we were all getting our groups together to travel the last two weeks of the summer in August after we were through with our school in Paris. Cindy Bean, who I knew from the Theta House, and I were going to Madrid, Toledo, Barcelona, and a beach town called Blanes in Spain].

Dinner is at 8:00 & is a costume party!!  We have a present for Jeannie, the bus driver!

[he was the sweetest man and put up with us. He also seemed to drink quite a bit of wine in our picnics along the road as I remember back. At the time when we were in high school, this was common practice. Drinking and driving, that is. But as I reflect, he was in a position to be responsible for a whole busload of American college students. Again, liability issues, especially in France at that time, were not an issue].

I have a new name given to me from the cook’s helper.  It is mouilleté or something like that. The word is German for “a little mouse.”

[I think I am confused here and couldn’t remember what he’d said.  The German word for little mouse is “mausa” and the translation for mouilleté is a) soldier or b) finger of bread eaten with a boiled egg.  Maybe I was feeling militantly angry with all this rain].

Costume party was a riot.

All different kinds of people in this group, all dressed up, all drinking & going out! I wished Marthe or mom or Robb or someone to be here that would see the humor in this situation!

[I am not a fraction as much fun as I would be now in this situation, very cautious. I don’t know why, because I was pretty wild in high school. I think it was just an internal safety thing for me being around people where I knew nothing about anyone’s background, family, especially with all the alcohol, probably good my binge drinking shoes had for the most part been hung up.]

I wore my green putter pants with green cotton sweater & leaves on my head.  I wore a sign that said “haricot vert.”  There was a punk rocker & a hunchback, a Dolly Parton, homosexual in drag (the bartender at the Auberge).

Amy was a hula girl, Ginna-Liza Minnelli [Getto-Kappa], & Cindy [Bean-Theta]-a Heidi.

Hank wore a BOZO wig and danced with all the girls and put his hands clear on their ASSES!  I couldn’t believe it.  Of course, they let him but he is married w/ 2 little kids!

 

 

 

le sketch du jour: nude Frenchman, le lac de montriond, lady in nickers, Annecy. June 25 & 26, 1980.

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Paula: "Excusez-moi." nude Frenchman: "Bon."

I think I forgot something in my sketch, must have blocked it out of my mind.

I remember being a bit shocked. But, I didn’t want to seem rude, so I just proceeded to the shower.

I wonder if I left on my shorts? Like when we used to wear shorts under our dresses so we could play on the jungle gym without the boys seeing our underpants. And yes, in the Graves family we called them underpants, not panties.  Sorry to all those boys without sisters who can’t imagine girls using such a utilitarian word.

Wed. June 25, 1980.

woke up late-breakfast.

RAINING.

Ran at 11:00 (3 miles)- shower*

*there is a new guy here with a big Afro hairdo. encountered him NUDE doing his wash when I headed into the shower room today! I said “excusez-moi” & he just smiled and said, “bon.”

Went to town, bought socks.

[the cold is really starting to get to me. this is when I adopted my european look of wearing knee high socks with sandals which continued with short socks well into my twenties. this was not the norm at that time as it is now.]

At 5:00, had tea & chocolate.

5:30- went to Le Lac Montriond-green lake in the mountains made from melted ice that falls from Alps. The melted ice makes the water green.

Went higher up to a little tiny mountain town, Chamonix.  Goats run around all over in hills and on the roof of this house with a dog that tends them. Very cold-about freezing. [my handwriting is very shaky here, so I must also be freezing]

Snow and tops of the Alps can be seen.  Few houses, but those there are built into the ground.

dinner/potage, pork chops, creamed potatoes, salade verte, apple tarte patisserie

June 26, 1980.

Woke at 10:00!! Raining per usual.

Decided to run to Le Lac Montriond.

I was lost (went wrong way) for about 2-1/2-3 miles, so by the time I had returned, I’d run a little over 10 miles.

Met a woman on the way up to the lake who was darling!  She said “Vous êtes jeune et bronzée et de bonne santé” or something like that (young, brown & healthy).  She asked if I was running to the lake and if I was staying at the Auberge.  She was from Paris & knew the owners of the Auberge. Very cute-was about 55 and had on knickers & knee socks & sweater & hiking boots.

Arrived back at Auberge just in time to catch the bus leaving for Annecy.  Stopped to picnic en route (roast pork, baguettes, tomatoes, oranges, chips).

RAIN!!

Raining in Annecy, but it is a really neat town.  It is on a lake and there is a big, long stretch of park, grass, flowers, benches. We sat in a café ’til it quit pouring & then walked around.

The women there were really pretty. It really was noticeable-much more beautiful than in the smaller towns.

There was a cute little bakery with a big crowd around it that smelled heavenly!!  We walked by it & waited to see what the crowd was (mostly Parisians) for.  A fresh, hot batch of little pie-like things had just finished baking & the people were waiting for a warm one.  Nixie bought one, and they were like little cheesy-eggy quiches.

Things like that, I’m really going to miss.

Returned to Morzine.

Cous-cous for dinner-I can take it or leave it-

mutton

chicken w/ vegetables

grit-like stuff

le sketch du jour: Yvoire, Genève, power shopping with details. June 24, 1980.

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Our bus route from Morzine, France to Genève, Switzerland.

A bit of background. While we were at the Auberge de Jeunesse in Morzine (French Alps) we did intense French lessons. But, there were two days of sidetrips. After study on a rainy Monday, we were rewarded with this trip to Geneva.  I’ll just begin from the sketchbook.

Mon. June 23, 1980.

Woke at 7:00. Sunny. Ran to Les Gets (all uphill 🙁 ) & back (all downhill 🙂 ). About 6.5 miles. Breakfast on raisins and coffee. Shower-hot.

10:00 headed for Genève.

Allons-y! traduisez: Let's go!

Yvoire

Stopped at 11:30 at Y’vroiy (sp?).  Small, medieval walled town that reminded me of San Gimingniano [San Gimignano, Sienna] in Italy. Lunch there.

[Yvoire is a medieval town in Haute Savoie on the shores of Lac Léman. It dates back to 1306. It was an important town on the trade routes through the Alps and along Lac Léman. By the 16th c., Yvoire had lost its strategic importance and had become a fisherman’s village. There is a beautiful château on the bank of the lake with turrets, towers, and a demanding position at the entrance of the yacht towers of Yvoire. And, the flowers are lovely.]

Genève

We were in Geneva from 1:00 to 6:00. Beautiful, beautiful city!! The feeling of Rome, but more polished and glittery, yet not artificial because it is still old. Very cosmopolitan feeling! I felt very important.  All the $ is just overwhelming, though.  Blocks and blocks of banks, jewelry stores with enormous emeralds & diamonds, & every designer one has ever heard of! Stores that you wouldn’t step into unless you were dressed to the teeth & probably not then! We went into the McDonald’s there & a Big MAC is $2.50.

Sent a white chocolate to Robb [Robb Edmonds was my part-of-the college-time boyfriend who was working in Washington, D.C. as an intern for Kassebaum, I think] at Georgetown which was really fun to do! Felt very touristique!!

The people were very nice, & I’m beginning to understand without having to ask questions, ask to repeat, or ask to speak more slowly.  People also seem to think by this time that we can speak a relative amount of French fluently (as long as we don’t speak too much :)! )  I think our tongues are loosening up a little & we’re not as halting as on our arrival. I made 2 purchases.

[I am always money conscious and worry about running out of money. My grandmother lived to be 97. This doesn’t mean I don’t spend it extravagantly at times, but I do keep track and my goal for this trip was to come home with money in my pocket to give back to my mother (parents). I think I was realizing how much spending money had been given to me and the great experience my parents were providing for me.]

One [purchase] -an aqua soft, soft sweatshirt ($17 or $18) that is possibly for mom-possibly Gina.  I bought it at a place called Blondino’s (like Fiorucci) [Italian store started in Milan in late 60s, maybe still around?]. It was wild! Bright colors & sort of punk-pink topsiders-yellow penny loafers etc. It was worth it for the bags alone.

[true shopping confessions]

I also made another purchase-for myself-but probably for sharing in the family [the 3 Graves girls; mom, Paula, Gina, as the Adams girls;Lacy & Paula, shared clothes].

[This was a rationalization, I don’t think it was anyone else’s look and Gina was at ASU. Distance and heat would make impossible and silly].

It is a beautiful, hand-knit in Switzerland blue (?), wool (yoke), button-up front w/ little silver button sweater.

A KU style tangent

[we called these Fair Isle in US in 1980s at KU for any sweaters that had a yoke. In Kansas, it was a loose term for any stranded color knitting specifically with this neckline, not necessarily having any relation to the knitting of Fair Isle or any of the other Shetland Islands. It was a Kappa signature sweater. They wore them backwards with buttons up the back, a great look which made me wish I’d pledged Kappa at times, along with the keys & fleur-de-lys. The one I bought looked Bavarian.]

KU Craft note

Note: I took knitting at Yarn Barn in college and I tried to knit a Fair Isle one once. I had mastered Fisherman’s knit and knitted them for me, mom and Gina. I never got the tension right on the Fair Isle, very difficult. So, I’m sure that not being able to make one for myself and the very cold rain without the proper clothes were both additional rationalizations for flipping out this kind of $.

I don’t want to say what I spent, but I do want to keep track in this book so I will say. $100.  hmmm….But I do love it!!  I have cashed $150.00 in traveler’s checks so far. My expenses have only been those 2 things, chocolate for Robb (      ) [don’t know why I don’t write this down, must have been expensive chocolate in my mind or hiding money I’ve spent on a boyfriend from my parents like they would care?  I’m sure shipping was exhorbitant] and expenses such as postcards, drinks in cafés, fruit, carrots, stamps, bottled water.

For dinner we had potage, coq au vin, la salade verte, & fromage blanc avec sucre.  It is a white, sour cream type thing that you sprinkle sugar on top of.  Very subtle, but good.

Journal and letter writing.

Almost done with Tender is the Night.

Tomorrow-possibly Chamonix if weather is good.

Au revoir à demain!

 

le sketch du jour: Hank, the swiss man’ish man; George, the former tennis instructor from l’hôtel du Cap; some menu descriptions. June 23, 1980.

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Alex, from Dottikon, Switzerland.

Hilmer, Sweden.

Because there are no sketches and no travels within this sketchbook journal entry,  I’m starting off this post with a good visual of two European men. I have a vivid picture of both Hank and George kind of blended into a very masculine Swiss-French athletic what I thought to be older man. Sometimes he has hair, sometimes he does not. I even get these two men and their names mixed up within this journal entry.

But, I could not find a picture of a Swiss man doing calisthenics on the internet, so this is where I landed. I started with men in 50s (see below), but then upped it a bit. I had to look in both Sweden and Switzerland dating services to get even close to the look, but basically they’re both nordic or celtic or something, aren’t they? Anyway, I have another young Frenchman I’m going to market along with two bachelor cowboys, so I thought I’d just throw them in the mix. They both are widows and they both are Taurus’s which I thought was interesting.

Mon. June 23, 1980.

J’ai reveillée at sept heures (7:00 am) and went downstairs to run. Hank (the athletic) one was downstairs in gym shorts & tennies kicking around his legs and looking very swiss-man’ish.  He is very tan with a little hair that is sort of grey-white.  He stopped his exercising long enough to demander où je vais (ask me where I’m going).  I told him & asked him about a good 6-mile route (after taking about 5 minutes to figure out 6 miles in kilomètres!).  He drew me a map which was great, although I still l’était perdue (lost it) before I’d even left the Auberge.  It was drizzly & grey, but still so pretty!  You can hardly see the Alps because of the fog.

I returnedd for petit-déjeuner (café, et un morceau de pain avec beurre).  Today I helped in the kitchen, but it is very difficult to understand because

1) they tease you

2) they act like they can’t undersatnd if you use the “vous” (formal-what we’re taught to use in school) form to address them.

Shower after breakfast & now I’m writing. None of the magasins [stores] sont ouverts [open]  aujourd’hui, so it’s basically a letter-writing-reading day.

[I think the Geneva trip activated the immediate gratification shopping chemicals. These had been dormant after first part of trip when I was occupied with history, buildings, and sketching. Then again, there were not really architecturally significant buildings I can remember in Morzine. It’s like a resort town].

For lunch we had this crudités salad thing and …Rabbit (lapin)!!  [attention Ginna Getto].  It was very good-sort of a white meat. It was served with little white potatoes w/ brie and fruit for dessert.

We had a phonetics lesson at 3:00 in the bar-café.  I’m with the advanced students.  Pretty interesting.

More reading & letter-writing.

Dinner at 7:15.  Pizza that looked good but different, real tomatoes and stuff on it.  After dinner, I talked with George who I thought was the cook, but was not.  He is a tennis instructor at a school & also at a hotel on the French Riviera.  (The School is in Antibes & the hotel is the l’Hôtel du Cap d’Antibes which is the hotel where Hemingway, Fitzgerald..maybe Murphy’s…[the other couple that were in Kevin Kline’s de-lovely Cole Porter movie] hung out in the 30s).  He was very interesting, on vacation, and un petit peu fou [crazy], je pense, but very nice.

To bed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

le sketch du jour: arrival in Morzine and evidence that I did know who Led Zeppelin was.

by admin

June 22, 1980. Morzine, France.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTaOvzZKRxA[/youtube]

Look!  I did know who Led Zeppelin is, it’s right here in my French sketchbook.  So, here’s a few excerpts…

Ran at 7:00 (2 3/4 miles). We left at 8:30. Drove ’til 11:00. Stopped at a Romanesque Cathedral Paray-le-Monail. Town is very pretty with river and flowers and lots of green grass.

Picnic’ed for lunch.  Stopped in various towns on way to Morzine. Drove through outskirts of Geneva. Many people live in Geneva but live in France.  This way they are able to make swiss money which is good but have a French cost of living (Geneva is very expensive).

Arrived in Morzine at 7:00. Sunny and darling little town. Looks like Aspen only the original instead of U.S. interpretation of an Alpine Resort.  Lots of little cottage-type swiss places.

Dinner at 7:30. Delicious! Boef Bourguignon avec des nouilles (noodles), le potage (thin celery soup), le pain, la salade verte, et une petite tasse de glace chocolat with a darling little cookie. It was very pretty!

 

Amy Adams, from Julie and Julia. "Oh, Julia, you make it sound so simple."

 

I have made Julia’s boeuf bourguignon and it is worth every step.

There is a bar downstairs at this Auberge de Jeunesse where everyone sits around & watches some Athletic thing on tv. [note attention to details of specific sport has not improved, but I’m thinking this time of year it might have been Wimbledon? at least I capitalize Athletic to give importance] Dinner was served in another room on long wooden tables.

George (an older-looks Swiss man very athletic-looking) is the head chef and two younger guys, Dénis and another who I don’t know the name of.  Hank is the owner and Mary Anne is his wife.  They are about 30. Mary Anne plays Led Zeppelin in the A.M. about 8:00!! [and it was this song, I utubed and listened to a few and this was it so now I know the name, Kashmir] They speak French and German.

This shows you the difference between different Auberges. They were both only 20 francs ($5) but this one is so nice.  I’m in a room with Sharon & Nixie. Sharon just graduated form KU in graphic design & Nixie will be a senior at CU.  We have a sink et la W.C. is across the hall.  The showers are downstairs but there is lots of hot water & a washing machine. Bonsoir! [Can you see how happy I am with the hot water and bathing and washing facilities?]

 

 

 

 

 

le sketch du jour: Bourges Cathedral perspective, London girls. 21 June 1980.

by admin

Perspective of groin vault with very fat felt tip pen. Bourges Cathedral.

I realize that it is just two days short of 31 years since this day and drawing in Bourges. Bourges is a city in the central part of France that is famous for it’s gothic cathedral. I’ll supplement a bit with pictures from Helen Gardner’s Art through the Ages. This will give you a little background and comparison historically between my first “le sketch du jour: Chartres” blog post and this contemporary cathedral in  Bourges. That’s tomorrow.

I have had so many jobs to both occupy myself and bring in egg money, that I don’t want to get too intense and lose anyone with detail which I tend to do. For example, playing art history teacher, you can google all this. But, a bit of background about what my goals were this summer. I only see these now in my retrospective look of my sketchbook from the summer of ’80.

I began my study at KU in interior design, minoring in French. My interest in interior design was never commercial. It began with my dollhouse for which the dolls held little interest, but the furniture! It was an old thrift shop bird cage with plywood shelves and I made comforters, tiny Andy Warhol flower paintings, modeled tiny FIMO tv sets and crocheted rugs. My grandmother would supply an occasional designer piece from the miniature shop that is now a Christmas Shop in the courtyard outside of The Shed in Santa Fe on our summer trips.

So, this began my interest in residential interiors (not playing house, designing and decorating house) and my interest in the history of decorative arts. I had done an internship with Bobby Smith at Jack Rees Interiors on Belleview. Bobby was a good friend of my Grandmother Millie Ward. Bobby was old school decorator from Chicago when there was no ASID or accreditation. Decorators just “had it” (taste) and/or went to art school.  Jack Rees Interiors was just up from JJ’s Steakhouse though I don’t know if it existed at that time. And yes, it is the spot that more than one time a car heading south from Westport crashed through the plate glass entry and landed in Jack’s showroom, thus requiring a remodel. He never seemed too fazed, so I wonder if he relished the opportunity to update the floor. There were never any casualties, but it would have given me pause when stopping in for a lamp or pillow.

Of course client names are confidential, but many had incredible art, antiques, and paintings; Old Master’s, Stickley before it was hip, noble, and reproduced, Tiffany candlesticks and one client with  NYC lighting designer on the team. I distinctly remember the bathroom lighting and downward focus on the pedestal sinks. The interiors were a backdrop to wonderful collections of possessions.

This was a whole different scale of domestic dwelling and interiors from my world growing up. I lived in our small, well-designed contemporary house on 67th St. in Prairie Village. My family did collect modern art through their relationship with Myra Morgan of Morgan Gallery. The Morgan’s were our neighbors in our tandem designed houses and Dennis is my childhood and forever friend.  Many in the 70s in KC collected art before people bought fancy cars and were diverted with other forms of consumption. Myra and Jim would take them all to Leo Castelli’s gallery in NYC.

As well, I remember my Grandmother taking me to Lillian Nassau on East 57th to buy me the few Tiffany pieces and later goblets to start my small never-to-grow collection. I really don’t even know NYC enough to know where I was in the city. But these were the small ways that I was connected to art possessions.

My grandparents had some wonderful pieces and I have a few, though much has been given to museums. They also gave joint larger gifts with the National Endowment for the Arts to the Nelson Gallery and Spencer Art Museum in Lawrence, the Cottingham Showboat and Rauschenberg Color Wheel are a few that come to mind. Their background another story, but needless to say, the wildcatter’s struck in Hays after the Depression. After teaching English and doing all the requisite women’s clubs, my grandmother gathered up reproductions of famous works of art, piled them in a van, and headed to more rural areas of Kansas. She and my Grandfather shared their love and interest in art with Kansans in the field who might not otherwise have had the opportunity to experience such things. She also had her own collection and wrote a book about Reverse Paintings on Glass. And, she served on the Kansas Arts Council, now the Kansas Arts Commission.

So, we had connections to art in my family. My mother at that time had been an art educator at the Nelson, on tv, and then Director of Art at the Johnson County Librairies. My father an architect. So, this background was more in the trenches than those for whom I worked at Jack Rees. As Bobby always said, serve the classes live with the masses. I’m sure my family’s passage was one of indentured servitude. We inherited the appreciation and desire to work around fine things of beauty and great craft without having to supply or possess the pocketmoney.

I guess I was in France this summer to learn about the European roots of all the historical interiors, secular and religious buildings, and urban planning from the Continent to put all of my background into a historical context. And I took an appreciation and history of Kansas with me to France. It is this history, enriched with the Industrial Revolution, new modes of transportation, and westward Frontier expansion that is the fabric of the wonderful aesthetic culture that is America today, warts and all.

This summer of 1980 and connections between these two worlds molded what I would later do and experience in life.  The difficulty, loneliness, beauty and learning of that summer was the best preparation I could ever have for living in the Deep Rural for the next 28 years. Inner resourcefulness and appreciation of place and people served me well in truly feeling and living the culture of the windy High Plains.

So, too deep, Paula. On a lighter note, a few notes from the sketchbook:

“Ran-got lost this am so a little tense.”  [how could I have been so aware of my emotions and recorded them but regressed so far…?]

“The artichokes here are HUGE! They are the size of honeydew melons.”  [this was bliss for me]

“Read French Magazine Marie Claire. Very easy to understand (subject was sunbathing). [again, too much tanning…]

“Dinner was better than last night. It was a hamburger thing, tomatoes, les pommes frites, camembert & peaches. We  knew it was hamburger because horsemeat here is the speciality (expensive) meat and the auberge wouldn’t serve that.”

“After dinner we talked with two girls here from London.”….”They gave us names of punk rock groups to see, theaters to go to to see what is really going on in Lond, bars to go to, what to be afraid of, what not to be afraid of. They said punks are weird but no harmful.”

[I have written] “if they ‘….stair ott ewe, tell tham to feck awk’ in her words.”  “But, stay away from the skinheads-the whole purpose is to fight-can’t miss them.  Bald, big boots, leather, sunglasses.”  [one east coast art school student from Kansas adopted the look that summer which I witnessed upon arriving home; the cultural background of the “look” had not been researched]

“They were traveling a little differently:  camping (tents), hitching for transportation, and free food via “nicking”-she said her meals were wonderful!! And then they proceeded to complain about all the “nicking” in Italy!!” [already identifying my pattern to pick up on hypocrisies in other’s while I’m sure unaware of my own].

The end, bonsoir, à demain.

 

le sketch du jour: Bourges Auberge de jeunesse. June 20, 1980.

by admin

Streetscape: Bourges, France.

Fri. June 20, 1980.  (notes from my sketchbook journal: The Johnson County girl comes out).

Well!  I am writing this so I will remember how I feel but won’t write that home. We are in Bourges in an Auberge de jenuesse. It is the pits.  There is a festival going on in Bourges so there is a huge group of 15-16 yr. old girls from Brittany. It is quite pungent.

The bus couldn’t get on the street to the Auberge so we all had to get out of the bus and pick up those little Italian cars so we could get by.  In the meantime, we caused a HUGE traffic jam & people were furious. Lots of yelling and gestures.

Dinner was at 7:30.  It was a sort of dormitory place.  It consisted of 1/2 grapefruit (pamplemousse), some kind of mystery sausage that looked like hormel sausage uncooked, rice, cheese, & apple.  Then everyone stacked up the dishes and scraped plates, at the table. Then we sponge off table and dry the silverware.  The curfew was 11:00 pm and I took one look at the 8″ of water standing in the shower & decided not to bath for two days until Morzine.  You can imagine how wonderful I am in this sort of environment.

We did go to a town carnival after dinner which was a lot of fun. [my motivation for Thursday night’s visit to carrousel in Wichita, June 9, 2011].  All the same bumper cars, games, rides, lights, but beignet & gauffre (thick waffles with whipped cream and berries) & escargots instead of popcorn, cotton candy, and hotdogs.

Cindy (Bean) and I ran at 10:00 pm.  It was still light and no one bothered us (3 mi.). Talked to Amy and Ginna Getto outside for a while. We all agreed to travel in groups of 3 & save money for hotels.  The truth is finally out after we all tried to be cheery on arrival.

Tomorrow I’m going to the Festival here & the Bourges Cathedral. Au revoir à demain!

P.S. Bedtime

There is a sheet sleeping bag you stick your feet in and a horsehair blanket! 🙂

You would be proud of my attitude here, though. I have been thoroughly pleasant.  Much nicer than I would be with my own family.

P.S. June 10th, 2011.  I read this last week. And, as I went to yoga, I noticed that a Carnival was setting up in the parking lot behind Siva next to the Baseball Stadium. This area used to be the old airport runway. Friday evening after my class, I could not resist.

the best horse!

and the best shoes!